Shortly after returning from Los Angeles I had
Sanamluang Café's kũay tĩaw pèt pa low, or "rice noodles with duck stew,"
* on the brain. So much so, in fact, that I began to fear it would get the best of me: I could not recall any establishments in Chicago which served this dish, nor could I manage to get any of the establishments that I frequent to make it for me.
And, then--like some kind of apparition in the desert of my mind--it appeared on the Thai menu placard at
Thai Avenue ...
aha!
kũay tĩaw pèt pa low
While
kũay tĩaw pèt pa low is a classic in the Thai culinary repetoire, it actually derives from a Chinese cooking technique which involves slowly braising fatty cuts of meat in a mixture of good stock, thick, sweetened soy sauce, and a blend of dried and fresh aromatic spices. The principal player in this formulation is star anise, which lends
pa low its distinctive flavour and aroma.
Was
Thai Avenue's version of this dish good? Well, I suppose that it did the trick. For the time being, at least, my craving has been satisfied.
Was it what I was loooking for? Sadly, it was not. But, given the particular constraints that are placed on a kitchen such as this, I do not hesitate in recommending it to you. The broth had decent structure, the duck was fairly flavourful, and the water spinach and bean sprouts lent good textural contrast.
A little bit of chile vinegar and crushed chile powder should manage to offset any overt sweetness that you may encounter.
Here is my translation of the Thai Language Menu placard pictured above:
SIDE ONE
01.
kûy châi thâwt - nêung : chive dumplings (fried or steamed)
02.
kao-lao ehn tûun : light beef stew with beef tendon, brisket, and liver
03.
néua - mũu
tàet dìaw : fried “jerky” beef or pork served with a tangy dipping sauce
04.
néua náam tòk : “waterfall” beef // grilled beef salad with roasted rice powder
05.
lâap kài –
mũu : minced meat salad with chicken or pork
06.
yam plaa mèuk : spicy and tangy squid salad
07.
yam plaa dùk fuu : fried, shredded Catfish salad with chile
08.
yam wún sên : mung bean noodle salad with minced chicken and shrimp
09.
phla kûng : shrimp and lemongrass salad
10.
sêua ráwng hâi : “Crying Tiger” // grilled beef filet with a sweet, savoury dipping sauce
11.
khài yát sài : omelette with stir-fried minced pork and vegetables
12.
yam khaw mũu yâang : grilled pork neck salad
13.
sùkîi-yaki (náam – hâeng) : mung bean noodles with c/o/m (“wet” or “dry”)
14.
lâap nẽua : spicy Northern Thai-style minced meat salad
SIDE TWO
01.
kũay jáp : rich pork and pork offal soup with “rice flake” noodles
02.
kũay tĩaw pèt pa low : star anise-braised duck stew with rice noodles
03.
kao-lao lûuk chín : light soup broth with meat balls
04.
nãem khlûk** : spicy deep-fried rice with Northern Thai-style "pressed ham"
05.
khaw mũu yâang : grilled pork neck strips with a savoury sauce
06.
sômtam thai –
puu : papaya salad with dried shrimp and peanuts, or with salty crab
07.
mũu náam tòk : “waterfall” pork // grilled pork salad with roasted rice powder
08.
kài thâwt : Thai-style fried chicken served with a spicy dipping sauce
09.
súp nàw mái : Isaan-style pickled bamboo shoot salad with roasted rice powder
10.
mũu pîng : grilled pork skewers served with a dipping sauce
11.
sâi kràwk isãan : grilled Isaan-style pork and rice sausage, served with accoutrements
12.
khâo man kài : “Hainan” chicken // poached chicken breast with stock-infused rice
13.
khâo khãa mũu : braised pork hock served with rice
14.
khâo khlûk kà-pì : shrimp paste-seasoned rice served with pork and sliced omelette
15.
khâo sawy kài : Chiang Mai-style curry with egg noodles and chicken
555/DDD, Press Rat Bizzles.
Erik M.
Thai Avenue
4949 N. Broadway
773.878.2222
* Sanamluang Café prepares a stunning version of this classic Thai dish. For more details, click here.
** This dish is alternately known as, "nãem khâo thâwt." I have discussed this dish, and Spoon Thai's version thereof, here.
ORIGINAL POST EDITED TO INSERT PHOTO LINKS.
Last edited by
Erik M. on July 14th, 2005, 12:52 pm, edited 10 times in total.