Khanom Jiin Naam Yaa etc., at Aroy Thai [Pics]

This noon, Los Angeles Thai food withdrawl pains had me racing to Aroy Thai for a plate of khanõm jiin náam yaa*. I am particularly fond of Aroy's version of the dish, especially when I ask the kitchen to include lûuk chin plaa, or "fish balls," in addition to the standard tinned tuna. The particular type of "fish ball" used at Aroy has a very pleasant texture and taste, and the náam yaa noodle sauce itself is wonderfully complex with plenty of spicy, peppery heat.


khanõm jiin náam yaa


incorporating the sauce


No sooner did my dish of noodles arrive than the owner/cook came out to my table with a serving of kaeng hèt phaw for me to try.


kaeng hèt phaw


kaeng hèt phaw--a better look

This dish is not something that is actually available in the restaurant, but on occasion it is made in the kitchen and then dispatched for sale at Thailand Food Corp. on North Broadway.

This mellow red curry features hèt phaw, which is an exotic fungi from Northern Thailand that is sometimes referred to as an "earth star." Hèt phaw has a very firmly-textured "rind" and a pronounced bitter taste. In addition to hèt phaw, Aroy’s version of this curry includes bamboo shoots, accacia leaves (cha-om), and plaa kràwp, or Thai "smoked" fish. It is really quite a sensation.


tinned Astraeus hygrometricus from Thailand Food Corp.

Regards,
Erik M.

p.s. If you are curious about my recent dining adventures in L.A.'s Thai Town, keep an eye on the "Beyond Chicagoland" board.

Aroy Thai
4656 N. Damen
773.275.8360
11 a.m.-10 p.m., daily

Thailand Food Corp.
4821 N. Broadway
773.728.1199


* I have written about this dish at some length, here and here.

Erik M. wrote:
No sooner did my dish of noodles arrive than the owner/cook came out to my table with a serving of kaeng hèt phaw for me to try.

. . .

This dish is not something that is actually available in the restaurant, but on occasion it is made in the kitchen and then dispatched for sale at Thailand Food Corp. on North Broadway.

This mellow red curry features hèt phaw, which is an exotic fungi from Northern Thailand that is sometimes referred to as an "earth star." Hèt phaw has a very firmly-textured "rind" and a pronounced bitter taste. In addition to hèt phaw, Aroy’s version of this curry includes bamboo shoots, accacia leaves (cha-om), and plaa kràwp, or Thai "smoked" fish. It is really quite a sensation.

Regards,
Erik M.

Erik,

about the "earth star" - do you eat the rind? Is it made from the canned stuff you picture or did they get some non-tinned?

I was unaware of the aroy/thailand food corp connection - do they make other dishes for sale there?

zim wrote:Erik,about the "earth star" - do you eat the rind? Is it made from the canned stuff you picture or did they get some non-tinned?

Yes, you eat the whole article. The "rind" is a bit like the peel of a thin-skinned lime. Whether or not the fungi's peculiar texture is attributable to the fact that it has been brined and tinned, I cannot say.

Yes, Aroy uses tinned hèt phaw. To my knowledge, that is the only way that it is commercially available in the U.S. Interestingly, the tin pictured above was specifically packed for Thailand Food Corp. by a company in Chiang Mai.

zim wrote:I was unaware of the aroy/thailand food corp connection - do they make other dishes for sale there?

Oh, sure. With the exception of the locally-made sweets that are available for sale there, Aroy vends most of the fresh items. Snacks, curries, salads, etc. These items are only available sporadically, but it is some of the best stuff in town.


lâap khûa* - made at Aroy, but purchased at Thailand Food Corp.

Regards,
Erik M.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that there is a curry that is occasionally available on the steam table at Thai Grocery that contains hèt phaw.

Thai Grocery
5014 N. Broadway
773.561.5345

* A spicy Northern Thai minced meat salad made with pork, pork offal, garlic, red onion, cilantro, and aromatic spices.

Erik M. wrote:Oh, sure. With the exception of the locally-made sweets that are available for sale there, Aroy vends most of the fresh items. Snacks, curries, salads, etc. These items are only available sporadically, but it is some of the best stuff in town.

I could be a bit more specific...

In addition to the kaeng hèt phaw and the lâap khûa mentioned above, Aroy also vends phàt phèt lûuk chín plaa, náam phrík nùm, and kaeng tai plaa.

Phàt phèt lûuk chín plaa, as you may know, is a spicy curry fry with fish balls.*

náam phrík nùm, as you may know, is a Northern Thai green chile "dip" of sorts, and one which is generally eaten with raw vegetables, pork skins, etc.


náam phrík nùm**

Kaeng tai plaa, as you may know, is an awesomely rasty and awesomely hot Southern Thai curry that is made with fish "guts."***


kaeng tai plaa

Aroy's version, pictured above, contains chunked fish, fish "guts," green beans, Thai eggplants, and pickled bamboo shoots.

Regards,
Erik M.

* This same item is also available at Aroy Thai Restaurant, where you will find it listed on the Thai Language Menu.

** The náam phrík nùm pictured is not actually that of Aroy. It is instead the "genuine article," which was brought back from Chiang Mai for me by Wanna at Spoon Thai.

*** There is a very good recipe for kaeng tai plaa in David Thompson's book, Thai Food, on pp. 305-306. For the uninitiated, I would suggest starting with Aroy's version--from Thailand Food Corp.--first.

Thanks Erik for the further info on aroy/thailand food corp

Iwasn't aware of the fish innard availability, now I'll have to get some.

by the way there's a food blog by that name

zim wrote:Thanks Erik for the further info on aroy/thailand food corp

One last item, before I begin composing separate posts on Thailand Food Corp. ...

... and, while this is not made by Aroy, it is definitely worth mentioning:


hàw mòk plaa châwn - steamed curry custard with mudfish, wrapped in a banana leaf

Thailand Food Corp. imports these custards* from Thailand, and then bags and sells them for $2.25 ea. These custards are very high quality, and they stand head and shoulders above nearly all of the restaurant versions that I have had in this town.

I warm them for 15 minutes in my bamboo steamer. I have found that it works best to either wrap the steamer lid with a tea towel, or wrap the dish containing the custard with cling-film, so as to prevent the (excessive) sweating which can mar the texture of the warmed product.

Regards,
Erik M.

* The custards are shipped and sold, frozen. The custards' ingredients include mudfish, egg, curry paste, coconut milk, basil, chile, and shredded lime leaves. And, while the individual packaging does not indicate the item's weight, I would reckon that they weigh 6-7oz. ea.