pork (and soccer) in the park

We headed to the Magic Hedge at Montrose yesterday for a Mother's Day stroll and to enjoy the brilliant morning. After spotting a couple of Orioles and my toddler digging in the sand, we decided to walk to the top of Cricket Hill. Once on top of Cricket Hill my son spotted someone flying a kite, my husband spotted an all Korean soccer tournament and I spotted two blue tarps with ladies in aprons and tables set up with 5 or 6 chairs around them. "Do you think that's some sort of a slap-dash restaurant set up down there?" I asked my husband. I actually grabbed my son's kiddie binoculars to try and get a better look. But they were kiddie binoculars so I didn't get much magnification. We ran down the hill and I was thinking, all right, we're going to score some tacos or maybe even plaza-style enchiladas with potatoes and carrots like they used to serve at fiestas in Guanajuato when we lived there briefly back in '97. Anyhow, I ran up to one of the al fresco kitchens (there were actually 2) and I asked "Are you selling food?" and an older woman in braids said "Si." And a younger fellow said in English, "Would you like a plate?" "And I asked, "Well, what is it?" And he started lifting lids and saying "Oh, pork, rice, potatoes, salad. . . ." and then I saw a big bucket of the dried hominy and then another bucket of the cooked hominy. Thank goodness for previous lurkings on this here forum because I then was reminded of Ecuadorian cuisine and I asked, "Is this Ecuadorian?" and then they both nodded. I had actually had it in mind to maybe try La Cuenca for some of the pig over the weekend, but it was so nice out we'd headed to the lake instead.


So the lady starts piling boiled potatoes, rice, salad and then pork on the bone (sorry, i don't know what cut it was) and then a soupy, milk-colored concoction, I asked what it was and she said "papas." (Potatoes two ways and rice! A big ol' raspberry to Senor Atkins, hooray!) And I'm already happy. Then she reaches into a foil covered pan and there is an enormous hunk of a roasted pig, its skin all caramel-colored and crackly. I am pretty certain I let out what could best be described as a guffaw. A good guffaw. So she's carving big fat slices of white meat on top of the plate. The man asks over her shoulder "Would like some chicken too?" And I said. "Oh no, I can't possibly eat what's already on the plate." You know those moments when the people around you just disappear because you're so damn happy, like listening to a really rocking song at a concert or in front of an amazing piece of art? That's how I felt for a couple blissful moments (mind you, I haven't even eaten the food yet, I'm just so happy that this little outdoor kitchen exists) but then my son tugged at my shorts and my husband said "Happy?" And I nodded. The plate set me back $6 bucks. I did manage to ask "Are you here on the weekends?" "Only on Sundays" the lady responded.

I went and sat on the grass, while father and son watched the two Ecuadorean teams play soccer. The pig was really good. One hunk was super moist, one of the larger pieces was a bit drier I think it suffered the same that chicken often does. The pork on the bone was kind of smoky, my husband in a real bone gnawer so he kept coming back and plucking them from the plate. "MMMM these are good" he growled through a full mouth. The milky potatoes were cooked with tripe and had that smoky flavor of ham hocks. I don't like the texture of tripe but the papas were dreamy comfort food. I wished I'd said yes to the chicken, just to taste it. My kid started playing soccer with a couple of the kids of the Ecuadorean dads out on the field, their moms giggling at the site of my tow-headed toddler wobbly dribbling the ball with their little guys. We smiled at one another the way moms do no matter where your from or what language you speak. I'm licking my fingers and feeling very much like a fat happy frog. And I must admit just the teeniest bit smug thinking, "yeah all of you waiting in line for the perfect brunch at Orange or Tweet or some fancy pants hotel downtown. You ought to be here sitting on the grass with us."

Anyhow, I can't compare it to any other Ecuadorean food because this was my first experience. But I was just tickled knowing that there were food stalls such as this out in the park on the weekends.

We then purchased a granita of sorts of strawberry and coconut, (from a vendor on a bike) a great palate cleanser.

Then we walked over to the skateboard park and we passed two guys making carne asada tacos and tortas. "Are you here every weekend?" I asked and then said "Yes yes, every weekend." So we'll be back. It might not be Maxwell Street but it's nice to know that close to home is genuine street food.

If anybody knows of any other makeshift restaurants that set up along the lakefront, I'd love to hear about it!

bjt

Well, my next Sunday is now planned. Thanks for the excellent report.

Montrose is your best bet. When it's very hot, the place reminds me of Acapulco (in the best way). Later you'll see mangoes with chile, elotes, cheap inflatable Scooby Doo's and other wonders, if not already.

The hominy and pork is pierna mote y tostado. I think the potato soup you describe is locro. It all sounds great. For more good pork in the park, try Humboldt for the Puerto Rican trucks.

The hominy and pork is pierna mote y tostado. I think the potato soup you describe is locro.

Thank you! I am so bad about asking the names of dishes. I'll defintely be checking out La Cuenca to compare it with this meal.

No Scooby-Do balloon sightings but there were a gazillion paleta carts and bikes moving through the park.

Thanks for the tip on Humboldt, I actually do quite a few events at the park but mostly at the Boathouse, so I 've eaten at Las Palmas a lot but never made it over to La Esquina or any of the others. Maybe this summer I'll venture a little further.

bjt

Hi,

Another food to look for at these informal tents next to Ecuadorian soccer matches is Cuy or BBQ Guinea Pig.

Let me know if and when these are found as I would like to come out to see them myself. You only live once and I'm dying to sample "fish bacon."

Regards,

okay, now I've really got myself an assignment! keep your eye out for the "cuy in the park" post! hey, I was hoping it was going to taste "just like chicken" . . . .

bjt

Can you be more specific about where on Montrose? Thanks!

bjt,

thanks for the great tip. I've alway meant to get over there when the central american league plays, and now I have even more reasons.

jeffb,

anymore stands over there you're partial to during the summer?

I"ll try and be as specific as I can with few landmarks to go on . . .
if you exit LSD at Montrose heading east, the harbor will be on your right and lots and lots of soccer fields will be on your left. Also on your left and slightly east will be what is known as Cricket Hill, which isn't a large hill, but by midwestern standards, it's a hill. If you climb up the hill (is this goofy or what I am telling you to climb up a hill to then go back down again) turn and look east toward the lake. Down below in the trees pushed back from the soccer fields was where the "stalls" were set up. What caught my eye were the blue tarps (which is also the awning of choice at fish taco stands in Baja and tlacoyo vendors in Guanajuato) and then the ladies in smock style aprons.

The other thing to look for for the Mexican food (tacos and tortas) etc is simply smoke. Because where there's smoke there's often a grill. And maybe an umbrella as well. They do seem to stay close to the ball fields because that's where the hungry players and the spectators are.

good luck!

bjt

Zim,

I never really figured out a particular pattern or permanence for the vendors over previous summers. I would say that stands with tarps a la the vans across from Marianao set up where the soccer games are happening, but other vendors are selling stuff on the move (and away from the City employees) on the sidewalk by the beach. That's where I've gotten the mangoes, elotes, and, once, some sope-type things not unlike what the vans turn out (picadas).