Osteria via Stato

Went on Fri. night for my wife's birthday and had, overall, a terrific time.

Alas, I can't do the food real justice because it was a very social occasion - we were with another couple - and there was too much lively chat for me to get all the details on the dishes that I wanted. Things kept appearing magically next to my elbow without my even being aware of their arrival.

I can say that they seem to be working very hard to provide both a very eater-friendly and a somewhat unusual experience. A balance that's not easy to attain and at which they largely succeed.

My wife had the chicken breast entree, which didnt' seem all that exciting to me as described, but which she said was pefectly done. Simple and well executed.

One of our friends had the calf's liver in balsamic reduction and it was absolutely phenomenal. I get nervous when things come in highly reduced sweet sauces because that sweetness can very quickly cloy and wipe out any other flavors in the dish. This was just perfect. Not too sweet, but enhancing the flavor of the meat which was itself not at all "livery" - but just smooth and rich and luscious.

His wife had a sort of cioppino-esque spicy seafood stew which she pronounced very good, but I didn't get much more out of her.

I had the already famous short ribs and they were as good as their reputation.

Sides were perfectly grilled asparagus with garlic and crunchy roasted potatoes.

Pastas were pennette with a simple butter sage leaves treatement - although this was livened up with something that gave it a bit of tartness. Perhaps just a squeeze of lemon. Then there was papardelle with a sausage and tomato sauce that was divine. Hearty, just a bit spicy, meaty, beaty big and bouncy. Both noodle types were pefectly done and did not appear to have sat under a heat lamp before being served.

Starters were beautifully judged - each delicious in its own right, and working very well to contrast and complement each other.

First came a lovely dish of mixed olives. Then some cilegini in olive oil.

Then there was a house cured salmon served with thin radish slices. A lot of richness with some bright little crunch.

There was something that involved soft slow-cooked onions bound with melted cheese. I completely missed the waiter's description, but it was unctuous and flavorful and lovely.

Another dish whose description I missed was a delightful, crunchy salad - almost a slaw - with come celery and some chick peas, and i don't know what else, with a light, tart dressing.

And finally microscopically thin slices of tuscano salami. I don't know if it's made there, but it had a marvelous tang.

For dessert, the wife and I shared almond cake with pear on top which was excellent, and just sweet and rich enough for how full we were.

Service - and we were there at peak time - was right on the money.

My only complaint - surprisingly I think - is with the wine program, which they make such a big deal of. They have a very nice, interesting list, and as most people now know, they serve either a "quartino" - 1 glass plus a bit, a half liter, or a bottle. (I think I have that right.)

They also offer (and strongly sell) their "Just bring me wine!" concept. A package of 3 wines, 1 white and 2 red, that you can order at one of three price points: $15, $28, or $50. These are chosen for you by the restaurant.

Our beverage waiter strongly recommended the middle level, telling us that this way we would get optimal value because they include much higher end wines than you can just order by the glass.

The white was a blend of Chard. and Trebbiano. A perfectly nice wine for washing down various antipasti, but nothing special.

Wine #2 is where we had a bit of trouble. The waiter repeatedly told us that this was going to be a Barbaresco. Yipee!! Not only was I thrilled that they were indeed including that level of wine in the mid-priced line-up, but I salivated to think that if #2 was a Barbaresco, how wonderful would #3 then be, to climax the meal?

Well, the waiter was wrong. Wine #2 was a perfectly serviceable Nebbiolo, i.e. the grape of Barbaresco, but not the delimited zone - which makes all the difference.

Where he got confused was that the producer was Produttori del Barbaresco. Understandable; yet, it was a mistake that led him to explicitly promise not just a different wine, but a much better and more expensive wine than he delivered. When a restaurant makes as big a deal of their wine program as Osteria does, they really should get it right.

Wine #3 had been announced as a Nero d'Avola. But just before serving, he came to tell us that it had been swapped out for a Cabernet sauvignon, cab. franc. + something else blend. I asked if there was any chance of changing that, as I was really in the mood for more quintessentially Italian wine, not pseudo-Bordeaux. He said they would be happy to "work with" me, and came back with precisely the original wine which had supposedly become unavailable.

And, in the end, I didn't find the Nero d'Avola all that interesting, though I know the grape is experiencing a kind of Syrah like explosion in popularity. And actual Barbaresco, or a good Chianti riserva, or a really good Valpolicella or an Aglianico - all would have kicked a bit more butt than what they served.

And finally, when I made the reservation through Open Table.com, they asked for any special requests or instructions and I had said that this was a birthday dinner and would appreciate any little celebratory touch except singing.

There was nothing. Now, I wasn't angling for a freebie dessert, or a bottle of champagne. But since they asked, it seemed to me that they could at least have stuck a candle in the almond cake or delivered a Happy Birthday scoop of gelato.

This looks like a lot of complaining, so I should reiterate that I would go back in a second. The food was uniformly delicious, and now that I've tried the wine thing, I'll simply order for myself next time.

Thanks for the report Mark. It sournds SO much like the archtypical LEY experience. Good-bad-attention to detail-details missed-done right-done wrong that characterizes their approach of late.

Rob