Restaurante Y Taqueria Tlatzala [Pics]

Just before leaving for Los Angeles a couple weeks ago, I noticed a sign in the window of Taqueria Tlatzala which advertized a torta de langosta. Time constraints only allowed me to jot down a mental note.

Yesterday, while lost in a lunchtime reverie of fish tacos from Maria's at L.A.'s Grand Central Market, I remembered the mysterious torta de langosta.

Two consecutive days of lunching later...


signage


chips and housemade salsas


taco al pastor and torta de langosta


caldo de tortuga

Although the chips were clearly not housemade they were quite nice, especially with TT's housemade green salsa. As I think it is somewhat evident from the above photo, the green salsa at TT had an unusually creamy consistency. What you could not possibly gather from the photo, though, is that this salsa had a very peculiar taste. If I did not know any better, I would suggest that this taste derived from mustard, horseradish, or something similar.* In any event, this peculiar taste grew on me very quickly, and the waitperson came back to refill my basket of chips on both visits. As for the red salsa, I can only say that it was quite different from one day to the next. Today's version was properly piquant, while yesterday's version tasted overly sweet and flat.

So, about that torta de langosta...

...It turned out to be something altogether different than I had imagined. And, it was O-D-D. The "lobster" turned out to be processed fish loaf, and very much like surimi, or "krab stick." The processed loaf had been shredded and warmed with a smear of mayonnaise dressing, and this manner of preparation rendered it an ersatz warm crab dip.

Don't ask me about that bread roll; You will just confuse me even more. I am still trying to figure this whole construction out.

The taco al pastor was the waitperson's suggestion. It wasn't completely indedible, but I don't at all care for tangy, pastey and soft al pastor meat. That said, it was a lot like most of what passes for al pastor in this town. Somebody loves the stuff.

Today, I headed back to try the current especial del dia: caldo de tortuga, or turtle soup.

This soup made for a very pleasant lunch. The broth was light and tasty, and in addition to several large chunks of bone-in-turtle**, it included carrot, cabbage, potato, and cilantro.

While TT serves all manner of standard Chi-Mex platillos, aperitivos, caldos, and antojitos, mariscos would seem to be the specialty of the house. The printed menu included the following offerings:

"camaron a la plancha"
"pescado frito"
"coctel de camaron"
"ostiones en su concha"
"mojarrita"
"filete de pescado"
"pescado ranchero"

On various placards and bulletins around the restaurant, I also noticed the following offerings:

"fajitas de pescado"
"filete de pescado"
"tostadas de cebiche de pescado"
"camraones empanisados con insalada y papas"
"huachinango frito con arroz y ensalada"

At any rate, the food intrigues me, the place is nice, the waitstaff is cheerful, and they serve a great assortment of beverages. So, I will continue to mine for treasure, and, who knows, maybe they can make fish tacos for me like the ones that I had at Maria's.***

Regards,
Erik M.

Restaurant Y Taqueria Tlatzala
3061 W. Armitage
773.486.1967


* This is simply a manner of speaking. The green salsa could very well contain something similar to mustard.

** Step up offit, Dawg. I am trademarking that one.

*** A report on L.A.'s Grand Central Market and Maria's Mariscos is forthcoming.

So was it an attempt at a Maine lobster roll that somebody had or saw in a magazine or heard about from the brother of a friend of a cousin once?

Edited to reflect realization that this was in Chicago.

I've eaten at Tlatzala a few times, and like it just fine, I know what you mean about the odd salsa - in fact I find it quite good on chilaquiles I've had there in the past.

I wonder if the torta is more similar to the disappointing experience I had with shrimp "tortitas" at dona lolis, where the shrimp patties tasted like pressed fish food.

Later I was told that this dried shrimp concoction is typical, but my experience of it was by no means tasty

To each his own. Tortitas de camaron seco are, to some, a rare treat. Around these parts you see them mostly during Lent. I like them OK, but they do seem a bit like something you might buy to feed the fish at Seaworld. Here's a recipe.

http://www.recipecircus.com/recipes/bil ... _Seco.html

Regarding the mayo-laden kongrejo, I wrote something about the seafood place on Western near Margies last year. They put out a very mayo-heavy version of ostioneria fare, which one might expect is meant to appeal to or emulate los gringos. But on further inspection it is obvious that the sole audience is the Mexican-American community. Some Mexican beach town must have this stuff. I prefer the Nyarit style.

Mexicans, like Polynesians and Brazilians (and the Frenchies, of course), are notorious mayo-lovers. I'm sure most here are familiar with elotes (grilled or steamed corn on the cob) covered in mayo and chile powder.

extramsg wrote:Mexicans, like Polynesians and Brazilians (and the Frenchies, of course), are notorious mayo-lovers. I'm sure most here are familiar with elotes (grilled or steamed corn on the cob) covered in mayo and chile powder.

... and it seems that it's not just maybe a question of eating it fairly often but (for some at least) eating it in large doses... Every once in a while I order a torta and forget to ask if they use mayo (at least some places don't) and, for someone who doesn't like mayo that much, the torta can be well nigh ruined with an excessive slathering of the stuff.

I didn't know Polynesians were mayo-heads... Well, now I have a reason not to want to go to paradise.

***

The tortas de cameron are one of those acquired tastes, I guess. And alas, I must admit, I'm not a big fan.

***

I assume Tlatzala is the name of the home town of the proprietors. If that assumption is right, do you all know which state it's in?

Antonius

And mayo does have an affinity for seafood. Other reasonable people do it too. Nothing like the fresh mayo that comes with the seafood platters in Nice, for example.

But the application of mayo to shellfish was not, in my experience in Mexico or the Mexican diaspora north of the boarder, so common. Mixed with salsa Huichol and slathered on huachinango before grilling, yes; as a condiment in Ensenada/SD fish tacos, yes; on corn, sure; but as a base for cocteles (or inside a fried shrimp empanada, as at the place on Western) was new to me.

I assume Tlatzala is the name of the home town of the proprietors. If that assumption is right, do you all know which state it's in?

Tlatzala is in Guerrero.

I love some of the turtle soups I've had over the years and wish proper environmental management would allow some of the tastier varieties to make legal appearances at the table. But I have to wonder what kind of turtle one gets in a taqueria soup. Tortuga de caja, perhaps?

Looks like an interesting place.

Scott

I have a Samoan uncle. A humble fellow, one Christmas his family gave him one of those multi-gallon tubs of mayo from Costco. He loved it. If you ever go to a Poly family luau, you'll see them slathering everything in it. My uncle explained that it's the similarity to coconut cream that created the affinity.

***

I've seen mayo offered as a side along with salsa and limes for fish in both Sinaloa and Nayarit. (ie, Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta.) I only like mayo in very narrow cases or freshly made, so I never used the stuff. I also don't much like seafood cocktails (which often have another condiment I'm even less a fan of, ketchup). I'm a ceviche guy. I bet mayo gets used a lot as a cheap crema alternative, though. I often mix a little mayo, cream, and Bufalo's chipotle puree for fish taco topping.

Scott--DFW wrote:Tlatzala is in Guerrero.

thanks, Scott. Here's a map of the eastern part of Guerrero, next to the state of Puebla, showing Tlatzala. (Though there seem to be some other little towns with this name in other Mexican states as well...)