I don't know, Pal Will, I went to a movie tonight and then tried to find something to eat in that area and even after participating in this thread I didn't feel like good choices were abundant. Note to self: just because you're hungry and have walked five blocks already and see slice pizza in the window at Gioco's, don't forget one of life's rules, which is, don't eat slice pizza.

Down near the Century mall (which is where I'm assuming you went to see a movie, MikeG. I'll be the first to admit that chow is a challenge in the immediate 3-5 block radius though La Creperie is a pretty good option.

Late night suffers dramatically here in terms of chow. That's for sure.

Yeah, that's what happened, I was seduced by the first tolerable looking thing I saw walking south (I barely avoided having late night breakfast at Golden Apple/Nugget whatever, which I would have nothing against at 8 am or after drinking rather than a movie...)

Although it's been a few months, I liked Sapori, which I think is within YourPallWill's 3-5 block radius, but still a bit of a stroll on a cold night to the Century Theatre.

Sapori Trattoria
2701 N. Halsted St.
773-832-9999
http://www.saporitrattoria.com

I enjoyed their homemade pumpkin ravioli in brown butter sauce with fresh, fried sage leaves.

Funny, you should mention it Rich. My downstairs neighbor and her boyfriend were talking very positively about Sapori recently. He's a CIA grad and budding chef at Ambria. The combination of the two of you recommending it means that I must give it a try.

I did forget to mention that Kingston Mines, one of the city's most venerable establishments to hear the blues is located in Lincoln Park on Halsted, not far from your hotel.

YourPalWill wrote:I did forget to mention that Kingston Mines, one of the city's most venerable establishments to hear the blues is located in Lincoln Park on Halsted, not far from your hotel.

In that vein, B.L.U.E.S. is a smaller bar across the street from KM - equally good, more intimate.

Sorry if this is late. We live in Lakeview and yes, there are fewer used book stores, but we really have quite a few choices still. Some already mentioned but some not.
Bookleggers on Broadway by Surf (well-organized)
Bookman on Clark and Wellington (messy but cheap)
Bookworks on Clark near Sheffield (well-organized)
Town Cleaners (that's the old name on the storefront, can't remember the book store name) on Belmont west of Clark
Selected Works (great for music scores) on Broadway and Cornelia
Powell's on Lincoln near Diversey
Have a great trip!
Sunnie

Original poster again. As our trip to Chicago creeps closer (we're REALLY looking forward to this), I wanted to touch base on two subjects and open up a third. It appears that the Taste of Chicago will be starting during our trip and right now my wife and I are not particularly inclined to go. It looks like your typical big city food festival, with all the heat, crowds and fried food that is usually attendent. Are we being too harsh? Also, we're debating going to Maxwell Street Market on Sunday morning. I understand there are some great finds in the market but I wonder how accessible it is to those of us who are not fluent in Spanish and who's knowledge of esoteric Latin food is limited (but enthusiasm is growing!).

Finally, having grown up in NYC and lived in DC, I tended to view the tourist attractions in each town with a jaundiced, cynical eye. That's just for the out of town rubes, I would think. Until one day I took the Circle Line boat tour around Manhattan island and thought, hey, this is pretty cool. I got an insight of my hometown that I hadn't had before. In that vein, if I had to do one touristy thing in Chicago, what would that be? I don't know when I'll make it back, so what's likely to give me a lasting uniquely Chicago experience, food-related or not?

Also, here's the current list of places we're planning to hit for food/drink/music :

The Map Room
Chilpancingo
Rosa's Lounge
Chief O'Neill's/Abbey Pub
Thai Authentic Cuisine
Lou Malnati's
Clark Street Ale House
Nuevo Leon

Seanchai wrote:Original poster again. As our trip to Chicago creeps closer (we're REALLY looking forward to this), I wanted to touch base on two subjects and open up a third. It appears that the Taste of Chicago will be starting during our trip and right now my wife and I are not particularly inclined to go. It looks like your typical big city food festival, with all the heat, crowds and fried food that is usually attendent. Are we being too harsh? Also, we're debating going to Maxwell Street Market on Sunday morning. I understand there are some great finds in the market but I wonder how accessible it is to those of us who are not fluent in Spanish and who's knowledge of esoteric Latin food is limited (but enthusiasm is growing!).

Finally, having grown up in NYC and lived in DC, I tended to view the tourist attractions in each town with a jaundiced, cynical eye. That's just for the out of town rubes, I would think. Until one day I took the Circle Line boat tour around Manhattan island and thought, hey, this is pretty cool. I got an insight of my hometown that I hadn't had before. In that vein, if I had to do one touristy thing in Chicago, what would that be? I don't know when I'll make it back, so what's likely to give me a lasting uniquely Chicago experience, food-related or not?

Taste of Chicago is mostly reviled, but I'm in the small minority that likes it. (I would skip it on the night of July 3rd and all day on the July 4th). It is expensive for what you get, and it skips great swathes of interesting Chicago food (and the places that are there often do not even serve their more interesting or "real" food). Still, it gives you the opportunity to try a lot of things easily. To us on this board, Chicago pizza, hot dogs or Italian beef is pretty blase fare, but for you, perhaps, this gives you an opportunity to try. During the week, especially between lunch and dinner, the place is very managable. I think it may be worth a shot. I'll try to dig up my report from last years Taste.

I love the Circle Line Boat! The boat tour run by the Chicago Architecture Foundation lacks the corny jokes, but makes up for it with serious facts. It is a fantastic way to see Chicago and learn. My other favorite touristy thing is to go up to the bar at the Hancock Building. The drinks are pricey, but there is no charge for looking out the windows, a much better deal than the observation deck there or at Sears Tower.

Maxwell Street is easy enough to handle without speaking Spanish. There will always be someone at each stand that speaks English. Plus, you see pretty much all of the stuff being made, so you just point to what looks good. Well worth it.

Rob

I think your take on Taste of Chicago is right on the mark, but DO make sure to get to the Maxwell Street Market on Sunday. Do a search for Maxwell Street and you will find many threads about it. Spanish is not required. Besides food, Chicago is very rich in archetecture and the Chicago Archetecture Foundation runs several boat tours in the downtown area. My favorite of those is the "Architecture River Cruise" tour. Also, don't miss Millenium Park, with its gardens scupltures and amazing Frank Gehry designed bandshell. If you're into art, The Art Institute of Chicagois right next door.

OK, here's the thread from last year's taste of chicago:

http://lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t= ... nformation

I think it gives you a pretty good idea of the thing, warts and all.

Rob

I would recommend the Chicago Architecture River tour. It's a great way to see downtown, and it's perfect on a hot summer day.

The tours leave from Michigan and Wacker, which is relatively close to your hotel. I would recommend getting tickets in advance since this is a really popular thing to do. www.architecture.org

Seanchai wrote:It appears that the Taste of Chicago will be starting during our trip and right now my wife and I are not particularly inclined to go. It looks like your typical big city food festival, with all the heat, crowds and fried food that is usually attendent. Are we being too harsh?

Not in the least. In fact, not harsh enough. If you do choose to go, I'd suggest a weekday morning, the very moment they open.

Seanchai wrote: Also, we're debating going to Maxwell Street Market on Sunday morning. I understand there are some great finds in the market but I wonder how accessible it is to those of us who are not fluent in Spanish and who's knowledge of esoteric Latin food is limited (but enthusiasm is growing!). ?

Maxwell Street 8am on a Sunday morning is a Chicago highlight, Spanish is not necessary in the least, nor is knowledge of anything more esoteric than how to smile.

Mike G and David Hammond's Gorilla Gourmet productions Maxwell Street Mexican, available on DVD, is an excellent introduction to Maxwell Street. With the Bonus of seeing many people who post on LTHForum on the silver screen, or at least a 32-inch Sony.

David Hammond has also put together a wonderful web based guide to specific stands on Maxwell Street which can be found <Here>

Enjoy,
Gary

A list of bar stops that doesn't include the Matchbox seems fairly empty to me. As the name suggests, it isn't a big place but is highly conducive to meet a wide variety of interesting people. On top of that, I have yet to find a more comprehensive bar in the city; with at least a dozen PREMIUM gins, vodkas, scotches, etc. My lady (Trixie-pea) and I never go in there and walk out not meeting someone new. A must stop. Have fun!


Matchbox 770 N. Milwaukee Ave. (Blue line-Chicago Ave. stop). At the intersection of Ogden/Milwaukee/Chicago Aves.

OK, Pigmon, here's a friendly challenge if you're up for it. On Thursday, the day we get in, we plan on walking from our hotel at 1816 N. Clark St. down to Lou Malnati's on Wells St. On the way we may stop at the Clark Street Ale House and possibly Celtic Crossing. After dinner, we plan on slowly making our way back to Old Town, dropping in at the odd bar/tavern/pub as well as any interesting shopping as we go. Can you sketch out a quality pub crawl that will include the Matchbox (which looks to be in River West?), our dinner plans and final destination? Others please feel free to chip in.

All right, I'm sold on the Maxwell Street market and the Architecture River Cruise. Now I just have to work on my wife as she has a disturbing habit of wanting to sleep in when we are away from our little boys.

Yes, it's called "hail a cab" and take it to the Matchbox.

Matchbox is off in an area considerably far from where you're walking. You could walk there, if ambitious enough, but you'd be walking through a lot of industrial-ish nowhere which will probably look scary (I don't think it particularly is, but it looks rough) and more to the point is fairly sparse for bars, interesting things to look at along the way, etc. compared to where you're talking about walking now. What's there is all good, but it's little clumps of bars and stuff around major intersections, separated by big warehouses and rail yards and so on. So I just don't think you'd find it an especially exciting walk even if you did do it.

Gotcha. Didn't really have a sense of the neighborhood before, thanks.

I just wanted to echo Rob's sentiments. I hate hate hate crowds, but as he points out, you can avoid 'em at the Taste with only a little planning, and as long as you're open to a day in the sun spent people-watching and cherry-picking those items you really want to have, you'll have a good time. If you're so sour on it that there's no way you can enjoy it, like so many here, you can indeed probably find better ways to spend your time.

On Thursday, the day we get in, we plan on walking from our hotel at 1816 N. Clark St. down to Lou Malnati's on Wells St.

. . . and if you walk north a couple of blocks (to 2600 block) you'll find Wiener Circle, a great place for a Chicago dog (and some street sass), particularly if you need a snack late at night.

And, by the way, only a couple of blocks to the east is our great Lincoln Park and Lincoln Park zoo, which is, believe it or not, still free.

jbw wrote:And, by the way, only a couple of blocks to the east is our great Lincoln Park and Lincoln Park zoo, which is, believe it or not, still free.

Admittedly off-topic, but the Zoo's contract with the Park District requires it to be free in perpetuity. Just don't go there looking for the elephants.

I give a big thumbs up to Flourgirl's recommendation of the Chicago Architecture river tour. A beautiful way to see the sights of downtown Chicago and get a bit of Chicago history thrown in. Millenium Park is a must see and IMO I would avoid it during Taste of Chicago, if possible, as the crowds will be unbearable. Another fascinating and fun tourist day would be to take a Segway tour. It travels around Millenium Park and downtown. I didn't take the one in Chicago but tried it in San Francisco and it was a blast.

Chilpancingo is an excellent choice for your special dinner but I believe Topolobampo would be even better. The chef at Chilpancingo formerly cooked at Topolobampo, and his food doesn't quite match Rick Bayless' temple of Mexican cuisine. Having been a resident of Lincoln Park for over 20 years(just down the street from your hotel) I also suggest a walk down Armitage, east of Halsted. You'll love jogging thru the park, which is quite safe. Be sure to see the Lincoln Park Zoo, which is the only free city zoo in the country. Also stroll thru the zoorookery, which is adjacent to the zoo.

Seanchai wrote:Rosa's Lounge

Excellent call here. I've known the owners of "Chicago's Friendliest Blues Club" since they first opened up in the 80's & have been a regular customer ever since. It's small & somewhat out of the way, but a LOT less cheesy & touristy than, say, Kingston Mines.

Mama Rosa and her son Tony Mangiullo (the owners) are Sicilian immigrants, and are some of the nicest people you'll ever meet.

Plan on cabbing it to & from Rosa's.

Hi Seanchai,

Your plans for the trip sound great. I also heartily endorse the Chicago Architecture Foundation river cruise.

As a fan of Mexican cuisine, I was amused to see three Mexican destinations on your tentative list. I think Nuevo Leon is a good mid-level choice between the high end Chilpancingo and the wonderful street food of Maxwell Street Market. Nuevo Leon doesn’t get talked about much here on LTH Forum, as some of us explore smaller restaurants specializing in carnitas, birria, tortas ahogadas, carne en su jugo, etc., but it’s a fine place for a meal. As you may know, it’s a norteño restaurant, so the emphasis is on beef. Among the appetizers there I particularly like taquitos de pasadita (grilled beef with cilantro and chopped onion), and the queso panela, which has slices of fresh cheese grilled with tomato, onion, and jalapeños. The best thing in the antojito section, in my opinion, is the tacos de Sabinas (flour tortillas, beans, grilled ribeye steak, Chihuahua cheese). They have good carne asada tampiqueña as well as other good beef and pork dishes. (I actually don’t care much for their chicken in mole, and I somehow can’t imagine ordering shrimp or fish dishes there.) If you are in the mood for breakfast-y things they have great chilaquiles and also machacado con huevo, shredded dried beef scrambled with eggs, a specialty of the state of Nuevo Leon.

But if you have room left for dessert (and you are in Pilsen during business hours) I recommend going across the street to the Bombon bakery and getting one of their mini tres leches cakes!

I think in an earlier post you said you wouldn’t have a car and therefore weren’t sure about getting down to Nuevo Leon. Perhaps you’ve figured out a route already but in case you haven’t let me mention two possibilities.

1. Take the Blue line el train – Cermak branch – to the 18th Street stop. El trains run about every 15 minutes. The 18th St. stop is about 2 ½ blocks west of Nuevo Leon.

2. Last summer the city ran a free shuttle bus on summer weekends (10am-6pm) to Chinatown and Pilsen. I hope they will this summer as well. Here is a link to the 2004 schedule:

http://www.transitchicago.com/maps/bus/ ... huttle.pdf

You would have to get yourselves to Roosevelt and State (Red line subway, or Orange or Green line el train) to get on the free shuttle; get off at the 18th and Ashland stop and walk half a block east for Nuevo Leon. (It takes about 25 minutes to get there, because the bus first goes out to the Field Museum, then to Chinatown, and finally to Pilsen, returning to State and Roosevelt by way of the Mexican Fine Arts Center Museum and then Roosevelt and Canal, which is where the Maxwell Street market is on Sundays.)

Two final notes: Nuevo Leon is BYOB; you can purchase beer at the Guadalajara market a couple doors west on 18th St. Also, the restaurant can be extremely crowded on Sunday mornings after church, when it is packed with families. Depending on what table you are seated at, you may have hungry people in line gazing longingly at your food…

Good luck, and enjoy your stay!
Amata

Nuevo Leon
1515 W 18th Street
Chicago, IL
312-421-1517

Bombon
1508 W 18th St
Chicago, IL 60608
(312) 733-7788

I also heartily endorse the Chicago Architecture Foundation river cruise.

Just make sure the Dave Matthews Band isn't in town

And remember to get a margarita or 5 at the Matchbox. You'll *really* need a cab after a few of those ... yum ! also -- Matchbox is kind of a late-night place so if you're looking to go there at 8, it'll probably be mostly empty (which isn't saying much as it only holds *maybe* 35 people). It's been my experience that it doesn't really get hoppin' until 11-ish.

El Restaurante "Nuevo Leon" en Pilsen, Xicago:



Este conocedor joven de la cocina tradicional de México–– es verdad, es el hijo de Amata y Antonius, Lucantonius –– recomienda que se estruje un poquito de jugo de limón sobre los sabrosos taquitos pasadita que se pueden comer con gusto en el restaurante norteño "Nuevo Leon."

typo fixed.

Don't-miss Chicago tourism

See a play! Chicago is the country's most innovative and exciting theater town. Skip the downtown "Theatre District" and its expensive offerings and look at the small off-Loop theaters. You'll see things here that you'll never see in New York. Chicago Plays and the Chicago Reader provide the best listings. Note the Hot Tix list, where you can find out about day-of-show tickets at half price.

Visit Millennium Park, the city's newest attraction.

Nearby, the Chicago Tourism Center, 72 E. Randolph St., is hosting an exhibit on "Chicago," the World's Pantry," and you can also visit the beautiful Chicago Cultural Center, and its Tiffany domes; the building hosts a variety of art galleries, free performances and a visitor's center.

John Hancock Center. Skip the Observatory and go to the Signature Room Lounge on the 96th floor. This is a somewhat fancier bar than you're looking for just for drinking, but you get terrific views, a place to sit down and a drink for the same price as the observation deck. Tell your wife to be sure to visit the ladies' room.


For bookworms

Harold Washington Library Center, the Chicago Public Library's main branch, home to a wide variety of special collections. Even if you don't go inside, go past to gaze up at the wonderful gargoyles.

Newberry Library, one of the world's leading repositories of books and manuscripts relating to the civilizations of western Europe and the Americas. Free tours offered 3 p.m. Thursdays and 10:30 a.m. Saturdays.


Special events

"Stirring Things Up in Chicago" is a festival of food and the arts. Here's a link to some of the events happening while you're in town: http://877chicago.com/summer_june2.html

Taste of Chicago -- I agree with VI's assessment. It's not the food fest that it was, but if you go at nonpeak times, it can be fun and a good opportunity to try a number of routine Chicago foods in one place. Buy one item at each booth that interests you and share, so you can try more things. Check out the cooking demos, too. And while you're in Grant Park, be sure to take a look at Buckingham Fountain, one of our city's treasures.

Also, if you enjoy music, the Chicago Country Music Festival takes place at the Taste on June 25 and 26, and the Grant Park Orchestra performs Mozart and Mahler on June 23 and a program of popular movie music on the 25th in Millennium Park. Both are free.

Farmers' markets -- There are a variety of city-sponsored markets, as well as the Green City Market, which is near where you're staying and offers organic and sustainably grown produce on Wednesdays and Saturdays.


Lincoln Park/Old Town food

Aladdin Cafe
2269 N. Lincoln Ave.
773-871-7327
Nice little Middle Eastern hole-in-the-wall.

Goose Island Brewpub
1800 N. Clybourn Ave.
312-915-0071
Arguably the city's top brewpub. Try the Stilton burger.

Kamehachi Cafe
1400 N. Wells St.
312-664-3663
Good sushi till late night.

North Pond
2610 N. Cannon Drive
773-477-5845
Possibly higher-end than you're looking for, but the chef creates thoughtful, contemporary American food based largely on organic ingredients.

Vinci
1732 N. Halsted St.
312-266-1199
Excellent northern Italian. The mushroom polenta is a signature.