Kizoku Sushi & Lounge: A Photo Essay

Last night, my friend, Paul, and I went to the new Kizoku Sushi & Lounge, on West Ontario, for drinks and dinner.


chef melvin-san (l) in motion -- plating the signature "snow mountain" maki-mono


stuffed green pepper


fuji apple and fingerling potato salad


sashimi assortment feat. kanpachi, hirame, escolar, hamachi, madai, and spicy minced chu-toro


unngh...


special flash-seared zuke (soy-marinated salmon) sashimi


kizoku's "hot roll"


one of melvin-san's temaki-zushi creations


"Gochisou-sama deshita"

After a couple of cocktails in the adjacent Lounge--where the staff was more than happy to serve us our meal--we elected to move to the sushi bar so that we might personally interact with the Chefs. When we asked Kizoku's Host which Chef could best attend to us, he directed us to sit in front of Chef Melvin-san. While he was quite busy with a Special Valentine's Menu, Melvin-san was able to make several suggestions, as well as a couple of impromptu sushi and sashimi creations for our enjoyment.

I have been on somewhat of a sushi rampage of late, so it is with some confidence that I say that the sushi and sashimi that we were served last night was right on par with the finest around town*. Melvin-san's selection, cutting and handling of last night's offerings were phenomenal. Each piece of fish was perfectly sliced, sized and dressed for maximum impact and absorption. As with my recent meal at Japonais, though, I should say that I was disappointed by the use of wasabi paste and not the freshly-grated root itself. Assuming that supply is not an issue, I see no reason why establishments such as these--with the exceptional quality of their purchase and commensurate pricing schemas--cannot offer the real item, even if at a charge. And if last night was any indication, I should also say that--presently, at least--their appetizers and salads have very little charm**. Lastly, I want to say that one of the night's most distinctive touches, for us both, was the nori that the Chefs used for their creations. It had the most wonderful aroma and mouthfeel. Satori writ small, as it were.

Do not let the somewhat sedate and serene looking interior shots on the Kizoku webpage deceive you. Last night, while at full swing, the atmosphere at Kizoku positively dripped with a slightly sleazy, slightly sinister, and so so sultry kind of sexiness -- 60s-style gilt-edged screens, waterwalls, dramatic stage lighting, Portishead on the "hi-fi", super-short silk shifts, heaps of eye shadow, and a load of body glitter***. It was well-orchestrated, multi-layered sensory stimulation that would seem decidedly skewed towards the young, testosterone-addled, professional urban male.

Not that I was bothered, mind you.

Kizoku Sushi & Lounge
358 W. Ontario St.
312.335.9888
www.kizokusushi.com


Regards,
Erik M.

* Bob San, Heat, Japonais, Katsu, Mirai, NoMI et al.

** The kitchen does turn out cooked entrees like Scottish Salmon, Dover Sole, Lamb Chops, Kobe Beef, Tempura, and Sukiyaki if that sort of thing appeals.

*** The whole vibe called to mind James Bond films like Goldfinger and Dr. No.

Ric,

Your post here raises an interesting (at least to me) question: is it the eye of the photographer or the beauty of the dish that makes a food photo so appealing?

Aside from the slight out-of-focus (unintentional in the second shot, but beautifully intentional, I'm assuming, in the first), these are exceptional, magnificent pix, whatever their cause.

Hammond

The restaurant is very nice. I live nearby, and am always worried because I see so few people in there. I'm just not sure they will survive with such little traffic.

Let's hope they're connected to the mob or something so thay have another source of income than the few people who venture in for labor-intensive sushi dishes, which are reasonably priced for what you're getting.

Was the escolar called "Escolar" on the menu or anything else (say, bincho maguro?)

Also if it was in fact escolar, did the amount you consume (everything pictured?) lead to, um, any adverse gastrointestinal effects?

Thanks

[/quote]

Hi,

Your thinly veiled references made me quite curious about Escolar. I found what you are referring to:

Food Standards Agency of the UK wrote:The Agency has received reports of mislabelling of the escolar fish species as sea bass or 'sea bass steaks.' But because of its heavy fat content, escolar can, if not prepared properly or if eaten in large quantities, have a laxative effect causing stomach cramps and diarrhoea. Grilling will tend to reduce the heavy fat content whereas battering will not.

Additional symptoms, which may appear within 3-12 hours after eating the fish, include headache, nausea and vomiting. Recovery usually takes 24-48 hours. The illness may be more severe in older people and those with an existing bowel condition.
It is likely that many food business proprietors are unaware of the potential health consequences of escolar being consumed.

The Food Standards Agency has issued a Food Hazard Warning alerting the public and local authorities to the potential health consequences of people escolar.

From this information, one would need to eat a quantity of escolar to feel the effects. I assume the smidge ErikM consumed caused no ill effects.

Cathy2 wrote:From this information, one would need to eat a quantity of escolar to feel the effects.

Cathy,

Escolar is also known as the Castor Oil fish, for obvious reasons.

Enjoy,
Gary

GAry wrote:Escolar is also known as the Castor Oil fish

We actually had a container of castor oil in our medicine cabinet for years. I rememeber my Mother trying to persuade my kindergartner self take some because it was good for you. Just the odor told you there was deception in that bottle.

I wonder if Erik or anyone else cares to comment on the taste of this fish? How does it compare to mackerel?

Cathy,

While I, of course, can't comment on what Erik had that evening I've eaten escolar any number of times, both cooked and raw. In fact I distinctly remember the first time I ate escolar, Don Juan in Edison Park.

Escolar, which is sometimes referred to as white tuna in Japanese restaurants, when eaten raw has a rich, full, ever-so-slightly oily mouthfeel. Quite satisfying in small amounts. The difference between escolar and toro (fatty tuna), which is also quite rich, is toro has a buttery, almost kobe beef, finish and escolar has more of an oily finish, but in a good way. In comparison to mackerel, as you asked, mackerel has a more pronounced fish(y) flavor, escolar is mild in comparison.

If I remember correctly, and I may not, the culprit with escolar is the fact the fat molecules are 20% larger than most fish and tend to pass through the body without breaking down. (Please note I am neither McGee or Parsons). In years past, when I was a habituate of newsgroups, alt.food.sushi would have seemingly endless discussions about escolar/white tuna, much of it, as with all newsgroups, nonsense.

There were always a couple of people, Walter Rhee, who posts as the Seafood Advisor, and teaches sushi and Asian cooking classes in Champaign-Urbana, and Dan Logcher, to name two, who you could count on for fact based information.

Escolar is very delicious, either cooked or raw, I highly suggest not being off-put by potential for gastrointestinal distress, though I would recommend moderation.

Enjoy,
Gary

I just happen to have my copy of McGee's latest, and here's what he says about escolar:

"There's an unusual digestive consequence to eating the fish called escolar and walu (Lepidocybium flavobrunneum and Ruvettus pretiotus). They, and to a lesser extent the orange roughy, accumulate substances called "wax esters," which are an oil-like combination of a long-chain fatty acid and a long-chain alcohol. Humans lack the digestive enzymes necessary to break these molecules into their smaller, absorbable parts. The wax esters therefore pass intact and oily from the small intestine into the colon, where a sufficient quantity will cause diarrhea. Restaurants are the best place to experience these luscious fish - the flesh is as as much as 20% calorie-free "oil" - because they usually limit the serving size to a tolerable amount."

Reminds me of the whole Olestra/"anal leakage" controversy of several years ago.

Hi, I'm new - just discovered this site and I love it. You guys have done a great job.

Escolar - deeelicious...just had a gorgeous piece at Heat last week actually. I agree with Gary's comparison to Saba, less fishy but similar in texture (a little oily, in a lovely, buttery way). The taste is mild like maguro and I personally prefer it over toro although i think most would disagree.

Hikari

Gary,

Very kind of you to write up such a complete explanation. Once you mentioned white tuna, then I realized I have had escolar without full knowledge of what escolar may be.

When you mentioned castor oil earlier, I had visions of something unpleasant though I cannot imagine fish oil in the medicine cabinet improves with age.

As for Mackerel, I keep trying it though I haven't found any I like. I've had it raw in Sushi, an eye opening experience. I've tried it grilled almost to charred due to CrazyC earlier comments on it tasting less oily-ish. Though the grilling modulates the fishy taste, just not quite enough for me. I'll keep trying it from time to time, though I think I may never quite get it.

I'll add another data point as someone who has eaten escolar on numerous occasions (it's tasty) and not had to suffer the "consequences".

Cathy2 wrote:As for Mackerel, I keep trying it though I haven't found any I like. I've had it raw in Sushi, an eye opening experience. I've tried it grilled almost to charred due to CrazyC earlier comments on it tasting less oily-ish. Though the grilling modulates the fishy taste, just not quite enough for me. I'll keep trying it from time to time, though I think I may never quite get it.

I had an exceptional piece of mackeral about a year ago at Chez Panisse Cafe. I can't for the life of me remember the preparation any more, but it was really superb. Not oily at all, not fishy at all.

-ed

It's funny: mackerel is one of my favorites for sushi specifically because of its stronger ocean notes. In sushi, I've never tasted it as fishy. It is certainly a stronger flavor than tuna or salmon, which can be almost invisible in flavor (although not texture) under the ginger and wasabi (which is why I've stopped topping my sushi). The sliver of skin usually left on the mackerel is also visually appealing.

I remember as a kid catching king mackerel in my uncle's boat off Miami, its steaks, cut cross-wise, are great on the grill.

JoelF wrote:It's funny: mackerel is one of my favorites for sushi specifically because of its stronger ocean notes. In sushi, I've never tasted it as fishy. It is certainly a stronger flavor than tuna or salmon, which can be almost invisible in flavor (although not texture) under the ginger and wasabi (which is why I've stopped topping my sushi). The sliver of skin usually left on the mackerel is also visually appealing.

I remember as a kid catching king mackerel in my uncle's boat off Miami, its steaks, cut cross-wise, are great on the grill.

Mackeral is also very good for shiyaki (forgive the spelling) or salt broiling. Back in the day, one of Ms. VI's and my favorite restaurants was the Japanese cafe a few doors down from Ann Sathers--in fact as soon as we left the hospital with our first born, we had lunch there. And broiled samma was my standard order. This thread reminded me that it has been a VERY long time since I've been to one of those kinda Japanese places. Sun Cafe on Clark is still there, but most of that lot are history.

Rob

From a posting on alt.food.sushi

Escolar contains a strong purgative oil, called
gempylotoxin

I have come across various accounts on the effects of escolar - some of which are credible. Different people of course react differently and to varying degrees.
Another part of the confusion is the nomenclature. Some sushi places call escolar "Super White Tuna". But bincho maguro, or white tuna could be either albacore or escolar

Escolar is oily and white, albacore would be slightly pinkish.

I am still curious as to what the escolar that Eric ate was called on the menu.

I'm a mackerel fan, too. But I'm a sucker for fishy stuff. I can't get enough at a decent sushi bar: it tastes like something, and it's cheap.

Of course, the homestlye Thai pla tu with nam prik (kapi) isn't too shabby either.

It's a great foil to beef at the kalbi places.

Not all mackerel are the same, of course. The Spanish mackerel has a reputation for being milder, and a good sport fish.

Vital Information wrote:Mackeral is also very good for shiyaki (forgive the spelling) or salt broiling. Back in the day, one of Ms. VI's and my favorite restaurants was the Japanese cafe a few doors down from Ann Sathers--in fact as soon as we left the hospital with our first born, we had lunch there. And broiled samma was my standard order. This thread reminded me that it has been a VERY long time since I've been to one of those kinda Japanese places. Sun Cafe on Clark is still there, but most of that lot are history.

I really like going to Ginza for their broiled mackerel dinner. Crispy, juicy, oily, full-fish flavor that you suck off the the fish bones. Comes with miso soup and three different salads.

Ginza
19 E Ohio
Chicago

Vital Information wrote:Sun Cafe on Clark is still there

Rob,

Sunshine, not Sun, which I agree is quite good for homestyle Japanese. On Clark I also like Matsuya for grilled mackerel. I've also had the odd sounding, but wonderful tasting, grilled teriyaki trout at Matsuya.

Enjoy,
Gary

Sunshine Restaurant
5449 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60640
773-334-6214

Matsuya Restaurant
3469 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60657
(-248-2677

Yeah, Matsuya. What's not to like? half a dozen different grilled fish every day, solid sushi chefs, low prices (not as much as in years past, but still good). Lots of non-sushi (I like the ramen, but know nothing about this subtle delicacy). Matsuya's always packed, chugging along without much press these days. It's my go-to Japanese. I have never been to Japan, but something about the place makes me feel as if it is more "Japanese" than most Japanese restaurants here. Maybe its all those Japanese patrons and server-ladies.